Plan it
Board cut schedule
Every panel you'll need to cut, sized to actual milled lumber dimensions. Print this page or download the PDF to take into your workshop.
| Panel | Dimensions | Qty | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 9.25″ × 24″ | 1 | Provides 4" mounting tabs above and below the main box enclosure |
| Front | 9.25″ × 16″ | 1 | Drill 3" entrance hole centered 12" from the bottom edge |
| Side (Fixed) | 9.25″ × 16″ | 1 | Cut top edge at a 10-degree angle (16" back, 14" front) to shed water |
| Side (Hinged) | 9.25″ × 15.75″ | 1 | Shortened 1/4" at top to allow side-opening for cleaning; use two screws at top as pivots |
| Roof | 9.25″ × 12″ | 1 | Provides a 2-inch overhang at the front; bevel the back edge at 10 degrees to sit flush against the backboard |
| Floor | 7.75″ × 9.25″ | 1 | Recess 1/4" up from bottom; clip all four corners 1/2" for drainage |
Source board layout
All panels are cut from a standard 1x10 board (9.25" actual width). The back and front are full width. The sides fit between the front and back panels. The floor is ripped to 7.75" to fit between the side panels.
Get materials
Shopping checklist
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Build it
Construction notes
- Wood: 3/4-inch (19 mm) untreated cedar, cypress, or redwood. Never use pressure-treated wood or plywood containing toxic glues.
- Boards: A single 1" x 10" x 8' untreated cedar board yields all panels needed for this robust falcon house.
- Hardware: 30x 1-5/8" galvanized deck screws, 2x 2" exterior hinges or pivot screws, 1x safety latch or thumb screw, 4x 3" lag bolts for mounting, 2-3 inches of kiln-dried pine wood shavings
- Ventilation: Leave a 1/4-inch gap between the top of the side panels and the roof, or drill three 1/2-inch holes near the top of each side panel.
- Drainage: Clip the corners of the floor panel at 45-degree angles to provide 1/2-inch gaps for moisture to escape.
- Predator guard: Since these are mounted high, a 3-foot (91 cm) metal stovepipe baffle or a sheet metal wrap around the mounting post is the most effective deterrent against raccoons and snakes. Ensure the box is not under overhanging limbs that would allow predators to drop onto the roof.
Install it
Place it & time it right
Mount on a lone tree, a sturdy 4x4 post, or the side of an outbuilding in an open landscape like a meadow or pasture. Avoid placing boxes near busy roads or areas with heavy foot traffic, and ensure the entrance is at least 20 feet from the nearest tree branch to deter climbing predators.
Seasonal timeline
When to install
Install by late January or early February in southern regions; by mid-March in northern climates to attract early-arriving migrants.
Nesting begins
In the Southeast and Southwest, nesting can begin as early as March. In the Midwest and Northeast, kestrels typically begin searching for sites in April, with egg-laying occurring in May. West Coast populations vary significantly based on elevation, with coastal birds starting earlier than those in the mountains.
Eggs & incubation
4-5 eggs (occasionally 3-7) · 28-31 days
Fledging & cleaning
28-31 days after hatching · Clean the box annually in late autumn. Remove all old nesting material and debris, then add 2-3 inches of fresh pine shavings as kestrels do not carry their own nesting material.
Regional considerations
American Kestrels breed across nearly all of North America, from the subarctic regions of Canada and Alaska down through the entire United States and into Mexico. They are most successful in open landscapes with short vegetation where they can easily spot prey.
Birds in the southern half of the US are often year-round residents and may begin looking for boxes during warm spells in February. High-elevation and northern populations are migratory, arriving back at breeding grounds later as the snow melts and insect activity increases.
The primary threats to kestrel nests are raccoons, rat snakes, and European Starlings. A metal post baffle stops climbing predators, while maintaining a 3-inch entrance hole specifically prevents larger raptors or crows from entering, though starlings must be actively managed.
Add a camera
Watch it happen
For American Kestrels, an interior camera should be mounted in one of the top rear corners of the box ceiling. Because these falcons are larger than songbirds, use a wide-angle lens to capture the entire floor area where the eggs will be laid. Ensure the camera is IR-capable, as the interior of the deep box is dark even during midday.
Kestrels are highly visual and can be sensitive to movement or strange objects. Secure all cables firmly to the interior walls using cable clips to prevent the birds from snagging them. If using a USB-powered camera, route the cable through a small 1/4-inch hole drilled specifically for the wire, then seal the hole with outdoor-rated silicone to prevent drafts.
Exterior monitoring is also highly rewarding for this species. A weather-proof camera like a Blink Outdoor or a dedicated trail cam should be mounted on a separate post or nearby structure 6-10 feet away. This allows you to observe the spectacular food transfers between the male and female and the juveniles' first clumsy attempts at perching on the entrance ledge.
Off-grid power with a USB solar panel
Nest boxes are almost always far from a power outlet. A 5V USB solar panel with a built-in battery is the cleanest solution — it powers most interior USB cameras, Blink cameras (via their USB port), and many trail cameras indefinitely.
- Panel position: Mount on the same post as the box, 1–2 ft above, angled 30–45° from vertical and facing south.
- Cable routing: Run inside split loom or 1/2″ conduit so squirrels can't chew it. Enter through the same grommeted hole as the camera cable.
- Battery buffer: Pick a panel with a 5–10 Ah battery so the camera runs through cloudy days and overnight for nocturnal species.
- Weatherproofing: Wrap every cable connection in self-amalgamating rubber tape.
Troubleshoot
Common problems & solutions
European Starling competition
Starlings are the main competitor; if they start building, remove their nesting material daily. Kestrels can sometimes defend the box, but human intervention is often necessary before eggs are laid.
Eggs rolling or breaking on the bare floor
Kestrels do not build nests; you must provide 2-3 inches of wood shavings (not sawdust) at the bottom of the box for egg stability and insulation.
Box overheating
Ensure the box is made of thick 3/4" wood and avoid painting it dark colors. Face the entrance away from the direct afternoon sun (West).
Bees or wasps moving in
Check the box in early spring; if a hive starts, remove it early in the morning. Rubbing unscented bar soap on the interior ceiling can discourage comb attachment.
Common questions
Frequently asked questions
The ideal diameter is 3 inches (76 mm). This size is large enough for the adult kestrel to enter comfortably while preventing larger predators like Great Horned Owls from accessing the nest.
Mount the box between 10 and 20 feet high. Kestrels prefer a high vantage point to scan for prey and feel secure from ground-level predators.
The best time is late winter, specifically late January or February. This allows the box to weather slightly and be ready for the first pair of kestrels looking for territory.
Ideally, face the box South or Southeast. This orientation catches the morning sun to warm the box but protects the entrance from prevailing westerly winds and the harshest afternoon heat.
Starlings are persistent; the best method is to mount the box in very open areas (away from buildings) and manually remove starling nests until the kestrels take up residency.
Yes, but they won't bring it themselves. You must add 2-3 inches of wood shavings (pine or cedar) to the bottom of the box to keep the eggs from rolling and provide cushioning.
Kestrels typically raise only one brood per year. If a nest fails early in the season, they may occasionally attempt a second clutch.
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